A blend of sartorial tradition and innovation

On 15 January Pal Zileri showcased the FW17/18 collection in an intimate presentation of exclusive fabrics, shades and prints that encompass the brand's elegant and innovative aesthetic.


Pal Zileri's melding of classic and contemporary is encapsulated by its fall-winter 2017/18 collection, further emphasised by the installation inside Milan's Rotonda della Besana. This hectagonal landmark provides an oasis of calm in the middle of a bustling metropolis and is the perfect place to absorb the essence of the new Pal Zileri collection. At the heart of the installation are the seamstresses who share top billing with the models as the main protagonists of the display.

As the models stride through the building clad in the FW17/18 collection, the seamstresses remain hard at work, some at machines and others hand stitching. They are carrying out the 12 steps that go into bringing to life a Pal Zileri jacket. Their avid concentration and meticulous attention to detail are clear and they are fascinating to watch, especially as a counterpoint to the models walking down the aisles in the finished garments.

STEP 2: Front tacking with interlining

STEP 4: Labels attachment on facing lining

STEP 9: Tacking for armholes preparation

STEP 12: Buttons attachment by hand and tacking

The clothing itself is an exercise in diversity and dynamism with a uniting force of practicality and artistry. Although the collection features unique standalone pieces, these are easily worn alongside the abundant shades, prints and fabrics creating what the brand describes as, 'unexpected, timeless and luxurious combinations'. Throughout there's a mixture of casual and formal, of soft tailoring blended with sleek urban silhouettes: sophisticated and understated all at once.

The single and double-breasted suits avoid the rigidity of custom and conservatism with the addition of lightweight wool and silk turtlenecks. Alternatively, these can be paired with a striped silk or cotton shirt adorned with embellishments to enliven the overall look. Those looking for a sportier aesthetic can find it in the parkas, field jackets, blouson jackets and seamless thermo-soldered puffers, all of which have been rebuilt with an elegant and contemporary Pal Zileri vision. More than just casual, these pieces make an effortless statement.

Some details of the looks presented

There are four key themes at work in the Pal Zileri FW17/18 collection and though the colour spectrum is narrow, it is well considered and takes into account every piece. Clean whites, deep greys and blacks are offset by a dash of mustard yellow. Dark green is tinged with touches of a warm burnt orange. Pale and rich blues are injected with a regal purple punctuated by alabaster white, and wine red tones play against a background of slate grey and crisp black.

The exclusive fabrics used are as varied as the colour combinations and range from the beautifully ornate to the wonderfully simple. Chalk stripes, houndstooth, glen plaids and bouclé mix with Prince of Wales, velvet and damier effects, often in macro weaves and jacquards. Always aware of function, Pal Zileri also often incorporates luxurious shearling into linings or hoods to add warmth.

In essence, the collection remains a perfectly crafted example of old and new, 'expertise and innovation', and the physical representation of Avant-Craft. It is modelled after, and deeply intertwined with, the whole Veneto region.

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